Quaker Parrot
(Myiopsitta Monachus)
Common Names: Quaker Parrot, Quaker Parakeet, Quaker, Monk Parrakeet
Description: In the Normal form the Quaker Parakeet has a light gray forehead, cheeks and throat. The chest feathers are gray-brown outlined with white much like an African Gray. The underbelly is a green-gray turning into bright yellow-green towards the feet and beyond past the vent area. A medium green covers the head crown, nape, mantle, back, rump and the majority of the wings and tail. Blue and black-green can be seen on the primary wing feathers, tip of the tail and underside of the tail. The beak is horn colored and the eyes are dark brown while the legs are dark gray. Both sexes look identical and the only 100% sure way to sex them is by DNA testing. Some people say hens tend to be larger than the males and are not quite as territorial but I would not rely on these statements.
Size: These birds average about 11 inches (28cm) but are much more broader than a cockatiel or Red-Rump Parakeet.
Origin: Quakers also referred to as Monk Parakeets originated in Southern Brazil, central Bolivia, and northern Argentina. This species is domesticated in the USA and escaped birds have at times formed feral flocks which are blamed for damaging crops. This situation has regretfully caused the government to issue bans and require permits on Quakers in certain agricultural states. Be sure to check your state laws to see that Quakers are permitted before obtaining one.
Are Quakers legal in your state?
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Illegal to own or sale
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Illegal to own as Pets
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Legal to breed with permit
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Must be banded to own
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California
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Georgia
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Georgia
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New York
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Connecticut
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New Jersey
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New Jersey
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Vermont
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Hawaii
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Kansas
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Virginia
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Kentucky
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Maine
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Pennsylvania
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New Hampshire
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Rhode Island
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Tennessee
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Wyoming
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Quakers are legal in Ohio
if thier wings remain clipped!!
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Mutations/Sub-species: There are several mutations of Quakers including Blue, Cobalt Blue, Red Eyed Cinnamon, Dark Eyed Cinnamon (Pallid), Pearl, Pied, Lutino, Dark Eyed Yellow, Yellow Face, White Face, Red-Eyed White and the rare Dark Eyed White. Further mutations are curently being formed by combining exsisting mutations. Cinnamon Blue is a combination of [Blue x Red Eyed Cinnamon] and Pallid Blue aka: Ice Blue combines [Blue x Dark Eyed Cinnamon (Pallid)]. Take a look at the chart below which should help simplify genetic inheritance among Quaker mutations.
Quaker Genectics Chart
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Mutation
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Genectic Inheritence
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Normal Green (Wild Type)
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Dominant
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Dilute Green (Pallid)
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Autosomal Recessive
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Cinnamon (Red Eyes)
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Sex Linked Recessive
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Cinnamon (Dark Eyes)
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The same mutation as Dilute Green aka: Pallid
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Blue
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Autosomal Recessive
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Pearl |
Autosomal Recessive
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Pied
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Autosomal Recessive
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Lutino (Red Eyes)
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Sex Linked Recessive
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Yellow (Dark Eyes)
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Autosomal Recessive
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Yellow Face
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Sex Linked Recessive
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Albino (Red Eyes)
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Sex Linked Recessive
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White (Dark Eyes)
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Autosomal Recessive
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Combination Mutations
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Genectic Inheritence
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White Face
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Blue + Yellow Face
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Cobalt Blue
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Blue + Dark Factor
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Snow Blue
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Blue + White Face
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Pallid Blue aka: Ice Blue
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Dark Eyed Cinnamon (Pallid) + Blue
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Cinnamon Blue
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Red Eyed Cinnamon + Blue
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To see photos and learn more about Quaker mutations please click the buttons below. The first button will take you to the website of Tom Nemerovsky and Jon-Mark Davey. They are the creators of new rare mutation such as the Dark Eyed White. The second button links to Newell Bench's rare Quaker website, the aviary where the White Face Quaker originated.
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Diet: A good Quaker diet must include large mixed millets, canary grass seeds, hemp seed, safflower, sunflower, peanut, fruits and veggies. Many people use a Cockatiel seed mix with added sunflowers and peanut kernels. Be careful not to add too much sunflower as Quakers can easily become "sunflower junkies". Sunflower seeds are very high in fat content and can make your Quaker become overwieght if proper excersise is not maintained. Apples and Cucumbers seem to be relished by our Quakers. Lettuce, spinach, chickweed, spray millet, eggfood, brocolli tops, carrot tops, orange slices and non-poisionous berries can also be offered on a regular basis. Fresh water, cuttlebone and grit should also be supplied at all times.
General Care: These birds can demand attention if they are hand tame pets. If they do not get attention they will revert back to a wild state or get negative attention with misbeahavior like many ignored pet birds. They are curious and amusing birds so be careful to keep them out of harm's way. Quakers tend to trim their own nails but they do require water changes frequently.
Compatibility: Quakers can be kept in same species colonies, as a pair or as a single pet. Most single pet birds form a strong bond with a certain member of the family. It can become agressive towards other members of the family if it feels they are interfearing with this bond. This is why it is best to purchase young Quakers which have been well socialized. Quakers can pick up bad habbits fast!! Something that may seem cute may become agravating later. For instance, If you poke at it (playing).. later it might lunge at you thinking it is a game! If you laugh at this behavior it will pick it up even faster. Quakers love to laugh...and will do what gets them what they want!! To them negative attention is better than no attention! Another thing I will mention is that Quakers can be the sweetest little birds away from their cage but they get very territorial over thier cage when they get older. You may want to stick your hand in and get it out or take the water dish out to clean it and it may bite because you are in "his space". The best thing to do in this situation is just open the door of the cage and he will come out when he is ready. Also, you can rotate toys in the cage or the location of the cage to help prevent this behavior. Don't get me wrong they are not bad birds. They are more like children and will try to dominant you if they can.
Housing: Pet Quakers can be kept in store bought medium parrot cages if they are allowed to be outside of the cage for the majority of the day. If they are not allowed to be outside the cage (as with untamed or breeder birds) they will require more space so they can fly and get needed exercise. If you are planing on breeding Quakers they will breed in a same species colony or in individual pair cages. It is my opinion that they breed best in pair cages vs. colony. Most people however attempt to colony breed them because they are hard to sex and it is cheaper. I would suggest a minimum breeding cage space of 48 inches long x 24 inches high x 24 inches wide with a 1/2-3/4 inch bar spacing if you use wire cages. Do not house them in round cages. If you plan to put your Quakers in a same species aviary it will not require heating as long as it stays above freezing in winter. Feral Quakers can survive very low temps but domesticated Quakers must be adjusted to low temps. If they are used to 75-80 F degrees and you suddenly place them outside in 40 F temperatures it is likely they will become ill. However, if the temp drops naturally over a period of time they normally adjust just fine.
Song: The Quaker parakeet has no actualy song but many learn to talk and they do make difference sounds, screeches, and noises. Differences can be noted in the mate call, warning or alarm call, and flock call. One Quaker normally dose not make too much noise unless it wants attention but a colony or flock of Quakers make a tremedious amount of noise sounding somewhat like conures. Take a look at the video below. Of course these are breeders (not tame) so they are louder than a single handfed pet would be.
Breeding: It is best to place Quakers in a large aviary and let them pick thier own mates. They form a strong bond and in most cases it takes quit a while for them to conform to a new partner if you chose the mate for them. If you only have one pair of Quakers this is not really a problem. Let's just hope you have a sexed pair that will bond :) Unlike most parakeets they are known for making huge nest. You can supply small willow, fruit, bamboo and popular branches for them to nest with. It is best to place your box in one corner of the cage rather then the middle. Doing this provides more privacy and allows them to weave twigs from the nest box into the wire. The nestbox size I suggest for Quakers is 12 x12 x12 or 15x12x12 made out of strong plywood. After a pair has bonded and are in breeding condition they will mate. You can often hear a hissing sound from the male and see him bobbing his head requiritating food for his partner before breeding. Eggs are laid 3-7 days after mating normally one every other day. The hen will lay on average 4-7 eggs and both sexes take turns incubbating the eggs for about 28 days. Most of the time not all of the eggs will hatch as humidity problems seem to dry them out. Humidity levels should be maintained at 65 percent or above with ideal breeding temps at 70-75 degrees. Baby Quakers can be pulled out of the nest at 3 weeks old in order to hand feed them. I see no reason why they need to be pulled before 3 weeks unless the parents are not careing for them correctly. Do not interfer with the pairs while they are nesting, incubbating or taking care of young babies. We all love to peek and hold those cuddely little Quaker babies but chances are they will abandon the eggs or babies if you do so. Quakers can and will breed all year if allowed so be sure to give them sufficient rest exspecially during hotter (Summer) and colder (Winter) months. I would recommend breeding Quakers which are 1-5 years of age.
Price List: Quakers can be sexed for an additional $25.00 added to purchase price.
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Mutation
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Price (Handfed & Unsexed)
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Price (Handfed & Sexed)
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Normal "Wild-Type" Green
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$125.00 Each
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$150.00 Each
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Green / Blue Quaker
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$200.00 Each
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$225.00 Each
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Blue Quaker
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$325.00 Each
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$350.00 Each
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